Arenal
INTRODUCING COSTA RICA’S HOTTEST HOT SPOT
The earth trembles from deep within and an echoing rumble pulls my
attention upwards in hope of witnessing the glories of Volcán Arenal, Costa Rica’s most consistently spectacular natural pyrotechnic show. But nature was playing with me on that pre-dawn occasion 13 years ago as I sat at the volcano’s very feet with my new husband looking in vain for Arenal’s famous fireworks. Despite the noise and preamble, nothing of the lightshow penetrated the heavy veil of cloud that frequently shrouds the mountain.
That’s the way it is with luck sometimes, particularly at Arenal, but the experience was still very exciting; and I knew that one day, I’d get another chance. Indeed, these days, whenever I ask my five- and seven-year old children, “Where do you guys want to go on our next vacation?” their response is predictable.
“The volcano! The volcano!” they shout with contagious enthusiasm, referring to Arenal, one of our favorite family weekend trips. Of course, I’ll never forget the first time we were blessed with the vista of Arenal spitting balls of lava and light high into the night sky. It’s breathtaking, bewitching and remains permanently etched in my memory.
The one consistent element on these family journeys to Arenal is plenty of relaxation in the thermal waters warmed by the fiery mountain. The kids frolic joyfully from pool to pool nestled in lush gardens, testing the various water temperatures on scorching hot sunny days, cloud-covered misty days or clear starry nights. Could a love of hot springs be genetic?
In addition to the hot springs, the region offers a good mix of rivers, forests and agricultural fields. On one fine rainy day, we made a particularly enchanting discovery. We set out to find the butterfly farm situated atop the hill leading to the Arenal Observatory. The adventure took us through beautiful green fields, over rivers, up winding roads and up above Lago Arenal higher and higher until we were sure we were lost. Then we struck gold.
This unobtrusive butterfly garden comprises several giant net structures tucked into a valley that house Costa Rica’s various species of moths and butterflies in their natural habitat. And they are chock full of butterflies in every life stage. We delighted in looking for larvae, eggs, and pupae and watching the delicate, colorful beings fluttering all around us. And along the trail to the butterfly gardens, we chanced upon a hummingbird’s nest with tiny eggs!
Another time we went horseback riding in the jungle. The trail was so steep, I swore that sooner or later we’d slip off, but the unflappable horses plodded along securely. We ambled next to a river for a while and stopped for a short rest by a waterfall, enjoying peaceful quiet in nature. Suddenly, out of nowhere, we heard an exuberant howl accompanied by a whizzing sound. We were under a canopy zip line, metal cables connecting platforms that permit the adventurous to explore the distant treetops. Whiz, whiz, whiz…the participants zipped by high above the forest floor as we watched in awe.
Lago Arenal is another beautiful sight. A lazy drive over to the Tilarán side of the lake ends with the adrenalin rush of windsurfers catching air over the waves. This lake is known to be one of the top spots in the world for windsurfing, as the winds are consistently strong and exhilarating year round. Picturesque restaurants dot the opposite shore offering views of the windsurfers gliding over the water with the giant volcano looming in the distance. And there are always funny little raccoon-like animals called coatimundi on the road, looking for a snack.
Beauty abounds. Even on trips when the volcano is covered by an impenetrable cloud or when we are showered in rain, the region provides endless opportunities for exploration.
Never mind the weather. Any will do.

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